Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Pattern Review: Named Kielo Wrap Dress


You know this dress, right? Named  Kielo Wrap Dress pattern has been kicking around the traps since it's release in 2014. So many bloggers have busted out Kielos in a variety of fabrics, stretch and woven. It's fun to make, fun to wear and really versatile what with all the wrapping options.

So why are we only just discovering our love for it now? Well, we have no answer for that! In the past month we have made three Kielos between us. And since I just made two in quick succession, one from a light and drapey jersey and the other from washed linen, we thought it might be interesting to compare the pair here.



The Kielo is intended to be made from a fabric with 20-60% of stretch, woven or jersey. I had planned to make mine from a distinctly non-stretchy linen, so muslined a size 42 in a old (clean!) sheet. It fit, but with little wriggle room since I'd forgotten to add the seam allowance (earlier Named patterns require the addition of seam allowance, so check the directions).  

In the meantime, I got waylaid seeing Rachel's lovely version in navy knit on Instagram. I wanted a comfy knit Kielo too! So with some of our Hemp/Organic Cotton jersey I forged ahead and sewed the same size as my muslin, but still without seam allowance instead of sizing down to accommodate the drapey knit. Although this hemp jersey is light, its weight and drape of course made the whole dress head south. The armholes pulled down and gaped, which I "fixed" by sewing the side seams up a further 5cm toward the underarm than the notches on the pattern were marked. The downward pull of the knit also means that the ties hit lower than my waist, limiting the number of ways I can wear this one, so I tend to just tie it loosely at the front instead of going for the full-wrap experience. If you compare the width of the shoulders on both linen and knit versions you can see how much the knit pulls down by the narrower straps on my black version. 

I hope this doesn't sound like laundry list of complaints, because it's definitely not. It's just a natural consequence of having not taken the time to muslin a knit version. Had sensible past-Fiona done so, she may have decided to size down. She also may have chosen a more stable jersey to work with. (Note for future Fiona who hopefully learns from experience… stay away from knits with spandex too). So, live and learn. It only took a couple of small deviations to make this wearable. For me this is the perfect summer dress, and I'm already wearing the heck out of it. 


By now the charm and ease of this pattern had got me under its little wrappy wings. I was on a Kielo high. We were also in the middle of a heat wave, and I couldn't resist the washed linen any longer (this one is "Blue Jean"). Since I was reasonably happy with the fit of my woven muslin, I just cut a generous 2cm seam allowance at the side seams between underarm and where the ties meet the wide wrap section at the waist. Everything else was sewn as per the instructions. It's amazing what a difference fabric choice can make to fit. 



As I was sewing this linen version, Jane tried it on and caught the Kielo bug too. Another washed linen Kielo is born. We love how versatile this pattern is - how great does hers look tied at the back?
 



Pattern Notes
The Kielo is supposed to be maxi-length to emphasise its interesting cocoon shape, with an added back split. That length just doesn't suit me me so I cut off the hem at the top of the split. I'm 5'5"/167cm for reference. For this length I cut both Kielos from 2.1m of 160/150cm wide fabrics.

On their scale of difficulty Named rate the Kielo as "Simple" - and we'd have to agree. With three main pieces and no closures I think this would be a great pattern for a beginner with a few projects under their belt.

There's also a downloadable sleeve pattern on the Named website if you're keen on a Kielo for cooler days. So, if you need us, we'll be partying like its 2014 right through to next Summer.

- Fiona & Jane xx

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Pattern Review: Fen Dress by Fancy Tiger Crafts

The Fen Dress pattern was released a year or so ago and for some reason did not grab our attention much at the time. But suffice to say it's grown on us, a LOT, and we now rate it as an absolute winner!

Fancy Tiger Crafts is a fabric and yarn shop in Denver, USA. They have released a small range of patterns and we've just stocked the Fen, Sailor Top and Adventure Tank.
I made the Fen dress in a washed linen (sold out but lots more linens here). It works beautifully in linen, and we can also imagine this versatile dress made up in a woven wool for winter, a breezy seersucker for summer or a light denim or chambray for year-round wear.
To test the fit I made a quick muslin of the bodice in size 12, which most closely matched my measurements. The fit (such as it is, in a loose-fit pattern) was great and the only adjustment I made was to narrow the neckline, curving it in about 2cm on the front and back pattern pieces. It really is quite a wide neckline and I didn't want to have bra strap issues.

The other change I made to the pattern was to make a neck facing instead of binding with bias. This was a personal choice - I'm fond of stitched down neck facings at the moment - and I also thought it would help stabilise the wide neckline in this soft linen. I had admired a large scooped stitched-down facing on the back of a RTW garment recently and made one similar. It gives a neat finish when the garment is on a hanger, which I guess is a RTW requirement, but I also like the look of it on the outside back.
I added a small strip of fusible interfacing just at the seamline on the neck facing, and also on the inside edge of the pocket openings, to prevent stretching.


Things I love about the Fen dress:
- oh so comfy, and great for bicycling
- pocket perfection
- bodice darts front and back make this shapely-casual, not baggy-sack
- slight high-low hemline sits right where I want it (for reference I am 5ft3"/163cm)
- layer-ability, I can see myself wearing this year-round
- easy-fit and easy-sew, truly beginner-friendly
- good instructions
- as others have noted, the skirt gathers are placed so they don't puff out over the hips
- this would work in so many different fabrics! Fiona and I are walking around the shop at the moment saying 'I could Fen the heck out of that!'

There are just two things I would caution about with this pattern:
- the round neckline, as drafted, is very wide. Easy to alter though, and I recommend you make a bodice muslin to check this for personal preference as well as general fit.
- the fabric requirements stated on the pattern are on the generous side. I managed to eke this Fen out of 1.75m of 140cm wide linen - BUT I did have to narrow the back skirt a couple of cms (not a problem with the gathers) and I made a neck facing instead of using bias. The stated fabric requirements would have had me cut 2.7 metres - almost a whole metre more! If I had not cut the skirt pieces side by side (which I did to save on fabric and help me match the plaid across the side seams), I would have needed about 2.2m. So be aware of requirements if you have pattern matching to do, or if you need the width for larger sizes. But use a bit of common sense and you can probably get away with less fabric than stated.

There are many variations you can choose with the Fen, including a shirttail hem (may account for extra fabric needs), a long sleeve, v-neckline and a lovely simple top. Personally I'm currently blinded by my love for this dress version and can't see past that but never say never....

PATTERN: Fancy Tiger Crafts Fen - view B dress
FABRIC: Washed linen, 175cm x 140cm wide (see notes above)
SIZE: 12
ADJUSTMENTS: narrowed neckline, made neck facing
COMMENTS: Can I wear this every single day?

- Jane & Fiona xx




Friday, January 20, 2017

Outback Wife by Gertrude Made - what to sew with these beautiful barkcloths!

There was a great suggestion on Instagram that we do a blog post on pattern recommendations to go with the gorgeous new cotton barkcloth fabric range Outback Wife. They've been selling very quickly though so please don't hesitate to snap some up - otherwise we have plenty of other fabrics that will be equally well suited to the patterns below.

From parent company Ella Blue's website:
"Outback Wife is the debut collection of Cathi Bessell-Browne, the hands and heart behind Gertrude Made. Each fabric has been a labour of love and they have taken more than a year to complete.
Inspired by the beautiful floral barkcloth fabrics of the 1940s and 1950s, each detail of this collection has been meticulously and sincerely considered to create a range with an authentic vintage voice. The stunning hand-painted floral designs printed on an exclusive cotton barkcloth base, tell the story of four Australian rural women. Outback Wife is an ode to the strength, passion and courage of rural women across Australia."

At 150cm wide, these fabrics are fantastic for dressmaking, with a medium-to-light weight, soft hand, a little give and medium drape. Produced in Japan, the quality of the basecloth and the printing is just beautiful. It really is like original mid-century barkcloth that was often used in curtains.

So what sort of garments could you make with Outback Wife? Here are some suggestions:

Deer and Doe Belladone Dress
Anna Maria Horner Painted Portrait Dress 

Grainline Willow Tank Dress and Top
Grainline Alder Shirtdress
For little girls: Merchant & Mills Trapezette Dress

 Named Patterns Lourdes Cropped Jacket
Merchant & Mills Trapeze Dress

Merchant & Mills Dress Shirt
For the blokes: Merchant & Mills All State Shirt
Merchant & Mills Top 64
 
Deer and Doe Chardon Skirt

With the vintage vibe of these fabrics we can also really imagine them in a 1950s fit-and-flare style dress. People have also been buying Outback Wife prints for use in quilting. What would you use them for?

- Jane & Fiona xx

Wednesday, January 11, 2017

Pattern Review: Papercut Patterns Skipper Tunic in Washed Linen

I have to say this project fought me somewhat along the way. However I was so in love with the fabric, a beautiful blue/green crossweave washed linen from our late 2016 delivery, that I was determined to make it work. And I'm pretty happy that I got there in the end. (End-of-the-day crumpled photos because we like to keep it real.)

The Skipper Tunic was released by NZ designers Papercut Patterns last year as part of their nautically-inspired 'Ahoy' collection. I loved the simple shape, square neckline and lace-up placket. Papercut offers free worldwide shipping (how?) so I bought this from their shop and in fact added another pattern because, to tell the truth, I wondered how they could make any profit on single pattern purchases with free postage. I can't help thinking of other small businesses.

Initially I made a basic muslin to test the sizing and fit. As I expected, I felt it worth sizing down and adding a full bust adjustment, a very common alteration for me. I also lengthened the pattern quite a bit because I wanted it to be a just-above-knee dress rather than mid-thigh tunic.

Then I went ahead with the linen. It all came together quite nicely, tra la laa... until I tried the almost finished garment on. Meh. It felt baggier and more boxy than I was hoping. And when I lifted my arm, the shoulder bunched up and the side seam 'tented' out, while it seemed to pull at the centre front of the sleeve/armscye join. I'm afraid the poor quality pictures below are the only remaining evidence, but you should get the idea.

There were a few contributing factors here.
- The washed linen has a bit of 'give' so probably increases the size and bagginess a bit.
- The neck facing (which I had omitted in my muslin, simply cutting a square neck hole), which is interfaced and goes right across to join in at the top and sides of the armholes, added quite a bit of structure to the shoulders. Omitting the interfacing would have softened this off a bit. I probably could have left the interfacing out of the placket pieces too because these ended up quite stiff as well.
- The sleeve shape simply didn't suit me. I guess I hadn't done enough moving around in my muslin to work this out.

I compared the shape of the Skipper sleeve pattern piece (on top, below) to a sleeve I like, from the Deer and Doe Aubepine dress (underneath).

As you can see there's quite a dramatic difference. The Skipper sleeve cap is tall and pointy, meaning it joins in to the armscye at quite an acute downward angle. The Aubepine sleeve cap is much more rounded and, for me, gives a more natural shape and range of comfortable movement. I compared the armscye shapes and sizes of Skipper and Aubepine and they were very similar. Solution found!

I was able to unpick the sleeves and recut the sleeve caps using the Aubepine pattern piece. I basted the sleeves in place and also basted the side seams, narrowing the dress a bit more through there. Once I tried it on I was much happier with the sleeves and fit, so I sewed it all up properly. Arm movement restored!

I still felt the whole dress was a bit 'boxy' on me, so to soften it off a bit I brought in the ends of the sleeves with a bit of elastic. I added patch pockets to break it up a bit and also because, well, pockets.
The placket lace holes are meant to be made with metal grommets, but my one and only grommet experience so far had been disappointingly fray-prone. So I chose to make very small buttonholes instead.

With no appropriate lacing cord to hand I tried a bit of folded and zigzagged selvedge, which I don't mind and I haven't got around to changing yet. So it's probably staying!

Cheers.
Beer: Prancing Pony. Shoes: Duckfeet.

Pattern: Skipper Tunic by Papercut Patterns
Fabric: 100% linen, washed/softened, Marine (sold out) but more linens here
Size: Sizing for the Skipper (I'm not sure about their other patterns) seems to run on the large side. I measured around a Size M, sized down to S with an FBA and then took the sides in. The sizing ranges from XXS to XL.
Comments: This is my first Papercut Patterns make. They have quite a few lovely designs and seem to have a good reputation with sewists around the interwebs. I find the Skipper sleeve shape odd but it may well be a design choice that just doesn't suit my shape. The patterns are beautifully presented, the instructions are clear and thorough and it's all printed on recycled paper. I've worn this dress quite a lot already, it's comfortable, easy to wash and iron and hits a great mid-point between casual and dressy that suits my wardrobe.

One last note: I sifted through every available blog post about the Skipper to see if anyone mentioned gaping at the placket, because it certainly dips down way past where I would be comfortable with giving anyone an eyeful. No-one did. In the end my placket pieces ended up overlapping a few millimetres at the bottom, which was not intended but I decided it would help with keeping things secure. I also increased the number of lace holes. And I'm happy to report no flashing so far.

- Jane & Fiona xx



Wednesday, November 16, 2016

Spring Top Series final In the Folds Peplum Top


We're rounding up our Spring Tops series today with another item to add to the growing Drapery "never say never" file. A top with a peplum - and a frilled peplum at that! I'd sworn off both of those things in the past as a no-go zone for me and my shape, but, well, here we are.

Let's lay the blame squarely on the lovely Emily, whose pattern company In the Folds produced the Rushcutter dress, a Drapery favourite from last Winter. The Peplum top is a free downloadable Emily produced for Peppermint Magazine's Sewing School series. At 21 pages it's not a very big PDF - and, honestly the Rushcutter was such a pleasure to sew, I was fairly sure that the Peplum pattern would be cut and paste worthy.


And indeed it was. The Peplum Top comes together so nicely, the drafting - as with the Rushcutter - is spot on. This is the perfect beginners pattern, the directions are very thorough and there's a nifty glossary of terms as well (over and above for a freebie pattern!) 

My top was made in one of our new washed linens, Creamsicle, a slightly nubbly off-white linen with a teensy hint of peach. Emily suggests lightweight fabrics for this top, and this linen leans on the bulky side of lightweight, so I was ready to take out some of the gather-volume if needed. But there's something weighty and pleasingly swingy about wearing a big-ass frill in this fabric, so it's staying put. Note also, that because of the width of the peplum pieces, this top can't be made in a fabric under 150cm wide (though I think you could probably get away with 140cm width too). I cut this out flat as per Emily's suggestion and was able to get this out of 1m rather than the 1.2m.

As far as sizing goes, I sewed size E based on the finished measurements, but I could have stuck with the same size that my Rushcutters were made in (D). It's a loose-fitting style, though, so it's not a big deal. The pattern is drafted for a B cup, and even though I wear a D, there was no need for any adjustments. Yay!

  
The back - with swing! Again, I went outside my comfort zone and resisted the urge to round off that deep point at the back with a higher back neckline. (Much discussion about age and baring of flesh going on in these parts lately, but we say forge ahead and show those upper arms none the less, yeeks). On the baring-of-flesh theme, it's also worth mentioning that the finished length of this top is around 40cm, so if I was going to make it to go with jeans I'd personally want to lengthen it


Close up of the shoulder panels - a lovely extra detail, and I think they help achieve a nice fit too.


The verdict? The Peplum Top is fun to wear, and a quick summery sew. Ticking all the spring top boxes!

So, there ends our foray into Spring Tops. Thanks for coming along for the ride with us! Now it's time to fill those wardrobe holes with something to go with all these tops - or perhaps even a Summer frock...

Read about our other Spring Tops here:

Thread Theory Fairfield Buttonup
Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee
Deer & Doe Ondee
Modal-Tencel-Spandex t-shirts
Cashmerette Springfield Top
Vanessa Pouzet Hippie Top
Deer & Doe Melilot Shirt (View B)
Grainline Studio Willow Tank

- Fiona & Jane xx

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Pattern Review - The Farrow Dress by Grainline Studios

When we received the preview email about the new Farrow Dress by Grainline Studios, we knew this was a Good 'Un. We both wanted to make it up for ourselves and we knew it would appeal to lots of Drapery customers. The swingy shape is flattering to all kinds of figures, the diagonal seam lines lift it out of the ordinary and the pockets - well they just seal the deal!
 Naturally, we leapt upon the pattern delivery and set about tracing and sewing like mad. Here's mine, made up in a 50/50 cotton/linen lightweight denim. (There's a small amount left in the shop, and this light denim would give a similar result.)


FITTING
From previous experience with Grainline patterns I know they are drafted for a figure with wider shoulders and a smaller bust than my own. Grainline always provides finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope which is a great help in selecting size. The swingy shape of the Farrow means there is more ease than usual at the bust. So I selected my size by my high bust measurement (to fit narrow shoulders) and made a quick muslin of the top half of the dress. It still needed a bit more room at the bust so I made a 3/4" Full Bust Adjustment, adding in a dart where there is none in the pattern. (I.e. I added 3/4" to the pattern piece, resulting in an extra 1.5" width in the front bodice.)
I then cut-and-spread the front skirt piece by 3/4" in width so the top and bottom pattern pieces would match. If anyone would like more details on these adjustments feel free to ask in the comments!

My bust darts match the lines of the diagonal front seams, and I'm going to pretend that was completely intentional....

CONSTRUCTION
The construction of the Farrow is pretty straightforward and it all comes together quite quickly. It can be slightly tricky to envisage how the front bodice and skirt pieces come together, with the pockets, but when you have them properly aligned the pocket stitching lines will match perfectly.

The clever in-seam front pockets mean there are three full layers of fabric at that point all the way across the front of the dress. Initially I was concerned about the bulk of this, but on wearing I realised that the weight works to nicely balance the extra length and swinginess of the back of the dress. Ingenious.

The sleeveless version has neckline and armholes finished with facings. Now I have to admit I'm not generally a fan of loose facings as I find them annoying to iron and a bit unfinished-looking. However, I can see the point of them in the Farrow, because of the clean lines they produce, so I put my trust in Jen (pattern designer Jen Beeman who really knows what she's doing) and went with the facings. They're stitched down by hand at the shoulder, side seams and centre front and back so they're not too flappy and when I'm wearing the dress I'm unaware of their existence. I wouldn't say I'm a facings convert but the Farrow is worth it. (Also, it would be a very simple matter to finish the armholes and neck with bias tape instead, and not stress about visible topstitching. I certainly wouldn't rule out doing this on a future version, especially on the armholes.)
The pattern suggests to close the back neck opening with a hook and eye, but I'm always keen for an opportunity to use a cute button from my stash so created a thread chain loop for this little red number.
swingy!
PATTERN
Grainline Studios Farrow Dress
Sizes US 0 - 18 (bust 32 - 44"), finished garment measures up to 49" at bust.
FABRIC
50/50 cotton linen lightweight denim, 150cm wide, 2m
SIZE
8 with  3/4" full bust adjustment (high bust 35.5" full bust 38"... ish, measurements seem to vary by the day/stars/mood!)
COMMENTS
A fabulous wardrobe staple for year-round wear. Sleeveless version could easily be layered, the long-sleeved version would be great in a wool for winter, and it would be easy to adapt to make a short cap-sleeve for those who prefer a bit of shoulder coverage. The Farrow has a similar appeal to the very popular Merchant & Mills Trapeze Dress, and offers a point of difference with the diagonal seaming and those awesome pockets.
The Grainline Farrow suits a wide variety of fabrics, and here are some suggestions:
100% Linen, washed/softened, Slate, Olive (and more)
Linen/cotton in Emerald, washed/softened
Linen/cotton print 'Rhombus'
Linen/cotton Brumbies
100% Linen, Mid-heavy weight, Natural
Japanese Wool Blend, Herringbone
Linen/Rayon blend
100% Cotton Lawn by Cotton + Steel, fish print

We'll see you round in our Farrows!

- Jane & Fiona xx