Thursday, September 28, 2017

Pattern Review: In The Folds Jumpsuit (free pattern for Peppermint Magazine)

Did someone say jumpsuit? Free pattern? By fantastic Australian designer In The Folds?
I was onto it like a shot! Pattern promo pic:
I certainly hope Emily of In The Folds is paid quite well by Peppermint Magazine for the patterns she designs for them, because she's a thorough professional. This is a great pattern, a really well-constructed blank slate for individual interpretation or just a really clean, simple silhouette. So thanks Peppermint Magazine, for making this available to sewists everywhere (and for encouraging sewing in general)! And thanks Emily for the fab designs (more online here).

I made a muslin, which we always recommend and is particularly wise for a fabric-hungry pattern like this. You really don't want to use your 'good' fabric until you're sure of what you're doing.
Muslin legs not full length because that was not necessary to check fit

The pattern states that it's designed for a height of 5'7" which is a good four inches taller than me. So before I even made the muslin I removed 1.5" at the bodice 'lengthen/shorten' line and another 1.5" at the line on the leg (front and back, of course). Apart from that my measurements fit nicely into one size, which is unusual for me but no complaints! And the muslin was a great fit, hurrah. Didn't even need a full bust adjustment.

I wanted to add pockets, and thought large patch pockets on the front would suit this very minimalist silhouette. A template made simply by folding a piece of A4 paper in half looked just right to me. So I used that and added seam allowance and top hem allowance.

I kind of fell in love with the green of my muslin (an old bedsheet) and couldn't get it out of my mind. That drew me to the 'Eucalypt' green Outback Wife cotton barkcloth by Gertrude Made. I generally find green a bit hard to work into my wardrobe but when we're talking single-garment-as-entire-outfit, all I need to match is shoes! And I already knew how lovely this barkcloth is to sew and wear, thanks to my Laneway Dress. Voila - green Jumpsuit!

Hmm what else do I need to say about this? I love it! The all-in-one neck and armhole facing gives a nice clean finish and the instructions to achieve this are great.

I was all geared up to try an invisible zip as specified, which I haven't tried in years and usually avoid like the plague. But all I could find (without travelling too far) was a regular zip in a good colour match. So I decided now was the time I would give the ol' "hand-picked zip" a go.
(speaking of colour match, please ignore the colour variations in my photographs!)
Basically this just means hand-sewing the zip in, using a backstitch that picks up just a tiny bit of fabric on the outside. I followed this tutorial at the Sewaholic website and am pleased with the result. I'd do it again! I'm also pleased to report that the jumpsuit is quite easy to get in and out of, even after a couple of drinks....

So here's the jumpsuit with and without the waist tie.
 I've also worn it with a fitted t-shirt underneath and love it like that, too. This is a year-round winner! It would be cute cut with short legs too, I think. I can imagine this being a real wardrobe staple in denim or chambray, or quite special in this linen viscose. And naturally our drapey, cool, soft washed linens would be a summer delight.

PATTERN: Jumpsuit by In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine (free pdf download, printable in large format AO or piece-together A4)
FABRIC: 100% cotton barkcloth, Outback Wife by Gertrude Made, in Eucalypt, made in Japan 2.6m
SIZE: E - this pattern is available in sizes A-K, full bust measurement 76cm/30" to 131cm/51.5" and designed for height of 170cm/5'7"
ADJUSTMENTS: 1.5" length taken from bodice and legs (3" total)
COMMENTS: A very nicely drafted pattern that came together well. I really appreciate details like angled ends of seam allowances that fold back to fit beautifully along the body pieces. I think this has a pretty forgiving fit, which makes it more beginner-friendly. The armhole is a wee bit low on me and I did mean to raise it a tad but forgot and then I'd cut out the first piece and it was too late... but I don't mind. If you've never tried the 'burrito method' of attaching facings before, you'll be introduced to this magic to create a lovely neat finish (trust in the instructions, it's very hard to visualise!).

I think this pattern will be an absolute winner this summer. Will you give it a try?

- Jane & Fiona xx

Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Pattern Review - Grainline Hadley top view A

The Hadley is the new offering by Grainline Studio. It's a loose fitting top with both sleeved and sleeveless variations, plus the choice between a round/jewel and v-neckline, with back pleat or without. I opted for view A, the sleeved top with the round neck and the billowy back.

If I was a jeans wearer I would be all over this pattern. Late last year I decided to give jeans the flick. I just didn’t feel any good in them any more, and, frankly, with the short hair, I felt like a bit of a boy wearing them. (I know, I know. It's a can of worms). So I made this top as a shop sample, thinking that it’s really not something I’d wear much during this jeans-free phase. However, this top has me questioning my no-jeans policy because a couple of Hadleys plus a reliable pair of jeans could really be a useful sort of Spring uniform. (I’m wearing another Grainline make in these photos, the Moss Skirt).  

There’s a lot of detail in this top that might not be immediately obvious from my choice of plaid fabric here. The nice topstitching down the centre front is one. The Hadley is also a facing frenzy. This version has not one but three sets of facings, for neck, sleeve and hem. With that there’s a healthy amount of clipping and understitching, but the combined effect is that the finish is great. Thankfully every piece is so well drafted they come together without any swearing or unpicking (other than that caused by user error, ahem.) I like the way the hem facing gives the whole thing a pleasing weightiness and helps to add some extra swing to the pleated back.

As is usual with Grainline patterns, Hadley was a pleasure to sew. I usually ignore set in sleeves unless they are really necessary, but in order to sew up the sample and be familiar with the pattern I followed the instructions to the letter and the sleeve went in first time like a dream. Possibly the nicest set in sleeve I’ve ever made! So satisfying!  I love how a well drafted pattern can make you feel accomplished, when all you are really doing is following some thoughtfully prepared instructions.

Fabric choice
This is one of those patterns where the amount of drape in your fabric is all important. I love this yarn-dyed textured cotton fabric (it’s one of the co-ordinating cottons from the Ella Blue/Gertrude Made Outback Wife range) and I really like the finished top, but I don’t think they are a perfect match. With its medium drape, there is a touch of the ‘maternity effect’  in this top when viewed from the side. With a swishier fabric this would not be an issue at all. In fact, this top would be gorgeously flowy in one of these linen/viscose blends, or one of our new washed linens. Or, indeed a rayon.

I cut this out of 2.3m of 110cm wide fabric which is spot on the recommendations. Using contrasting fabrics for the facings would suck up less fabric if you're looking to save a little. As you can see, I was careless when cutting, so after sewing the bust dart any hopes of my side seams matching were kicked to the curb. Jen of course suggests to cut more for plaid matching, and that certainly would have helped. I'm not terribly fussed about it in this case, though. 

I usually fluctuate between an 8 and a 10 for Grainline depending on the pattern, so I didn’t bother making a muslin (also, shop sample!) This one is a 10, and the shoulders are fairly narrow - not uncomfortably so, but I think they sit too far in from my actual shoulder edge. Also, for me the arms are long on this top, so I need to roll them up with facing on the outside to stop them getting in the way. Jane tried this on and noticed the same, so perhaps the arm length is intentional… a design feature? There are lengthen/shorten lines on the arm pieces in any case, so they'd be easy to shorten without needing to mess with the facing. The sleeve facings could also be nice in a contrasting fabric.

On the subject of fit, there's a nice sew-along on the Grainline blog, with a guide to making a full bust adjustment here.

Will I Hadley again? That depends on my ‘difficult’ relationship with jeans. ;) If anything is going to push me back over the edge, though, it could very well be this pattern.

 - Fiona & Jane xx

Monday, September 4, 2017

Pattern review: Merchant & Mills 101 Trousers in washed linen

The Merchant & Mills 101 Trouser pattern states:
"A gentle drawstring trouser with side pockets and a false fly, cut to sit right on the waist. Features 3 versions - cropped & tapered trouser, wide straight trouser or shorts."
I made these trousers as a shop sample and I put them on for blog photos to demonstrate the fit. They're not really my style or fit (explained below!) but we hope this review is helpful if you're considering the pattern for yourself.

I used one of our washed 100% linens - this one in 'Tapenade' - since the pattern calls for something soft and drapey (washed linen suits just about every Merchant & Mills pattern, and we have a lovely new shipment due any day!).

Merchant & Mills patterns tend to run on the generous size, and a size 12 in their dresses has always been plenty roomy on me. My measurements, and the finished garment measurements (provided) for the 101 Trousers however put me in the size 14. Made up, I think this was the correct size for me. So be aware and measure carefully rather than just choosing your regular M&M size. Also, check the leg measurements. These babies are LONG!

Ahem... learn from my mistake, yeah? I am a fabric miser and tend to assume my fabric ninja skillz will outsmart any given pattern layout. I merrily started cutting without laying out all the pieces and ended up with one much-shortened front leg. Fortunately these pants were so long on me that it didn't matter in the end, but please, trust me: this pattern layout (for 150cm wide fabric, at least) knows what it's doing.

In general the instructions were good and there's always some nice detail in M&M patterns - in this one, the pocket construction is rather satisfying and you could use the separate facing and lining pieces to insert a different fabric as lining and have hidden pretty pocket insides, if you like. At Step 2, attaching the False Fly, I couldn't make sense of the left/right description but followed the diagrams without problem. That said, it's a bit of a flimsy false fly so I'm not sure it's worth the bother. While I'm being nitpicky, at the end of Step 14 there should be instruction to finish seam and press open (I like that these details are included everywhere else).

I chose the wide, straight trouser because I thought it was the best one to have as a shop sample. And hey, it looks great hanging on our wall. Rumply, drapey, gently gathered. On me?
 Like I predicted, not really my thing. But that's okay!

As promised, these really are cut to sit right on the true waist - the narrowest part of the torso. Having a particularly short waist/torso, this brings the 101 Trouser up comically high on me. Hello, Tweedledum!

There is, fortunately, an easy fix for this, because Merchant & Mills have included a lengthen/shorten line in the hip area of the pattern. If I was to try it again I'd remove at least 10cm length there (to be honest I was hoping for a good new pyjama pant pattern and hope is not necessarily lost). The drawstring waist is pleasingly not-too-gathered or bulky. Comfort is good.

I used cotton piping cord for the drawstring for expediency but would recommend something a bit wider/flatter/softer because this cut in a bit uncomfortably when I sat down. In fact, I'd probably do a full elastic band and half drawstring just at the front.

PATTERN: Merchant & Mills 101 Trouser
FABRIC: 100% Linen, washed/softened - Tapenade, 150cm wide, 2.15m
ADJUSTMENTS: Shortened leg (accidentally - but would have needed to anyway!)
COMMENTS:  An easy and fairly quick sew. Definitely high-waisted - but that can be shortened. Carefully consider your preferred rise. The pattern gives all finished measurements and the 'back crotch depth' refers to length from top of waistband to bottom 'drop' of fabric when on a hanger or laid flat. Other than that the fit is pretty forgiving. Probably the epitome of rumpled, casual elegance on someone with a long waist and legs.

Any of our washed 100% linens
Linen/Viscose Twill
Cotton Double Gauze
Cotton flannels

Have you tried the Merchant & Mills 101 Trouser pattern? What did you think?

- Jane & Fiona xx

Sunday, August 20, 2017

Pattern review: The Laneway Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade, in Outback Wife barkcloth

When New Zealand designer Jennifer Lauren put out a call for pattern reviewers to help spread the word about her designs, I shot up my hand.  I've admired many of her patterns but had not yet sewn one. And I'd recently purchased her latest, the Laneway Dress, on first sight. I'd even had it printed already, so this was the perfect incentive to make it happen.

What I loved about the Laneway Dress pattern before I even made it:
  • inclusive sizing from 6 - 24
  • separate bodices for B, C and D cups (yayyy!)
  • that fabulous asymmetrical collar, plus two other options
  • pockets
  • flared, hip-skimming skirt without gathers
  • bust shaping with tucks at centre front.

I had some precious Gertrude Made 'Outback Wife' cotton barkcloth stashed for a summer frock. The retro floral was the perfect match for the Laneway. But first, using some old fabric from out the back of the shop, I made a muslin of the bodice and sleeves. Here's a (thankfully) very poor quality photo of the back, when tried on:

See that big crease happening in the centre? With the help of wonderful Instagram sewing friends I determined that the bodice waistline was both a bit tight, and long on me. Which is no surprise since I am not tall and my 'natural waist' (narrowest part) is proportionally high on my torso. Also, my measurements compared to the pattern's sizing chart indicated I may need a smidgen more room at the waist. These are common alterations for me. Being able to custom-fit clothing like this is one of the most satisfying parts of sewing!

My alterations
  • Let out the back darts and side seams a little at the waistline.
  • Shortened the bodice by 1 inch from front to side seams, increasing to 1.5 inches removed at centre back.
  • Widened front and back skirt panels to match extra room at waist.
The rest of the bodice and sleeves fit so nicely that I was confident to move to my 'good' fabric without a second muslin.

I'm thrilled to report that the Gertrude Made barkcloth - designed in Australia, made in Japan - was such a pleasure to work with. It has just the right amount of body and drape for this pattern, and it cut and sewed like a dream. The combination of beautiful pattern drafting and great fabric made easing the set-in sleeves an absolute pleasure, and the result is a sleeve that sits 'just so' and allows excellent freedom of movement.

So. Wanna see the finished frock? Please pardon a few creases.

Yes, I did attempt some pattern matching at the back seam and I think it's 'good enough'!

Inspired by a vintage dress I own, I added self-fabric piping at the waistline, and I'm delighted with the effect. I used cotton piping cord (we have it in the shop) and bias strips, and basted the piping to the skirt before joining skirt and bodice.
My only deviation from the very thorough instructions was to use a regular zip rather than invisible. I have a bit of a fear of the invisible zip and besides, I thought it would probably be incompatible with the waist piping. I'm quite happy with the look of a regular centre back zip, although I can appreciate the very clean finish that an invisible one would provide.
The little collar is created simply and cleverly with a facing and I decided to use one of the Gertrude Made solid colour barkcloths for a touch of contrast. I *may* have enlisted Fiona's help to try all eight of the colours we have in stock and honestly, they pretty much all could have worked! It's such a clever and beautiful range of fabrics. The Yellow Ochre ultimately seemed the most fun. The instructions suggest tacking the collar points down with a few stitches or even decorative buttons, but I love the way this gently falls, as-is.

What I love about the Laneway Dress now I've made it:
  • The fit which is excellent with only minor (typical for me) alterations.
  • The comfort: with all the style of a fit'n'flare, the Laneway is not at all restrictive. I can move! I can eat! I intend to wear it a lot once the weather warms up. I was freezing in these photos!
  • The pockets - a little extra attention to detail means the pocket openings are set just inside the side seam, for a very neat and 'hidden' finish, and the top is secured in the front waist seam so they don't flap about.
  • The lovely soft-pleated shaping provided by those 'open-ended' bust darts, which I've not tried before.
  • The perfect amount of ease in the sleeve cap: it's a subtle, but beautiful thing.
  • That collar. And all the rest of it!
helpful posing suggestions from my 9y.o.

the obligatory canine accessory shot
it's just a damn great frock

To summarise:

The Laneway Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade, pdf only from Jennifer's shop, sizes 6 - 24, B, C & D cups.
FABRIC: 100% cotton barkcloth, Outback Wife, Kirstine in pink, by Gertrude Made (sold out but others available here and new range soon to be launched), plus coordinating Yellow Ochre
ALTERATIONS: shortened bodice and increased waist as detailed above.
COMMENTS: This dress was an absolute pleasure to make (aside from a whole lot of unpicking because of a silly mistake I made when I neglected to cut off about 4cm outside the 'cut on fold' line of the front skirt pattern piece, resulting in a fully assembled skirt that was waaaaay too wide... yeah don't do that). I really, really appreciate the bust size options. The 12D has plenty of room for me and I would suggest slightly larger than a D-cup may be able to fit without alteration, too. The instructions were excellent and I highly recommend the pattern if the style appeals to you!

- Jane & Fiona xx

Thursday, July 13, 2017

Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket - again!

We're revisiting the Grainline Tamarack Jacket pattern on the blog today, because after trying on Jane's excellent version I knew I wanted some warm, quilty goodness of my own.

I also had a very specific hole in my wardrobe to fill. I needed something in the form of a jacket or cardigan, hip length and (somewhat predictably) black. Something I could get away with wearing both inside and out. I'd been admiring the gorgeous Bernadette Jackets made by Kate and Klarissa at Bombazine, and thought I could crop the Tamarack to a similar length. Three cheers for sewing, hey?

After choosing the outer fabric (a basic black top-dyed Japanese cotton, not online), and inner (100% Australian wool batting, also in store) I kept returning to this gloriously pretty and slinky Rifle Paper Co. for Cotton and Steel rayon for the lining. 

I’ve done a bit of quilting before but I was worried if I was up to quilting with rayon - I was worried it's slinkiness might see it end up a puckered mess once it met with my walking foot. In the end though pretty won out, and I found myself doing something I never thought I'd do - using a spray on quilt basting glue. (Insert scream-face emoji - not the most environmentally sound choice!) Thankfully, Jane had an old can left over from a previous stencilling project, so hey, we were just combining forces and using up what was already out there in the world on this occasion. 

A note on the quilting if you've not done much before and you're considering using a less-than-stable fabric for your Tamarack: baste then baste some more! My basting strayed way into OTT territory. I used the wicked spray glue, (both sides), plus I did more hand basting than the pattern recommended. But all that nerdy preparation paid off and it quilted like a champ: nothing fancy,  just straight lines, 3.5 inches apart as per the pattern suggestion - I didn't want to push my luck. I used my walking foot and also did a few test runs on offcuts to be sure I was happy with the stitch length, tension etc.

After the quilting this came together very quickly. I enjoyed sewing this more than any other garment I've made. Perhaps it was the quilting, perhaps it was knowing that this will fill a much needed gap in my wardrobe or perhaps it's just a fun pattern? Perhaps because it's terrifically warm but light to wear and, handily, mid-winter here? Perhaps the pretty lining had an intoxicating effect (could be... check the slightly mad eyes above).  In any case, I've worn this almost every day since sewing the last of that binding into place. Finally - an excuse to walk around in a quilt! Don't know why I waited so long. 

Pattern notes:
- I machine stitched the binding on one side, then hand stitched it into place on the inside. Jen's instructions for mitred corners are great! Mine aren’t perfect, but they were very satisfying to make.
- I cropped around 20cm off the length (comparing it to a much loved denim jacket, about 60cm from neck to hem). 
- Because I took so much off the length, I omitted the welt pocket. 
- This cropped and pocketless version of the Tamarack used 1.9m of 110cm wide fabrics for each lining and outer, plus an extra half metre of outer fabric for the binding.

 - Fiona & Jane xx

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Pattern Review - Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven

I'm an overalls fan from way back... from 70s toddler style, through 80s black denim with badges all over the bib, some late 90s op-shop classics, a roomy maternity version and more recently, the overalls' close relatives the jumpsuit and pinafore.
I've been very tempted by the Pauline Alice Turia Dungarees but never quite taken the plunge. And then, just recently, Sew House Seven (of the gorgeous Tea House Dress and popular Toaster Sweater) released the 'Burnside Bibs' pattern. I was smitten.

(Just a little aside for non-Adelaide people, the name Burnside Bibs sounds kinda funny to our ears because Burnside is renowned as a rather toffy area with a rather toffy shopping centre; a not very overalls-ish place at all.)
I digress.
The wide legs and fabulous back strap/belt loop detailing on this pattern elevates it from workwear to stylish casual, and it works in a wide variety of fabrics. This is well demonstrated in the samples shown on the Sew House Seven website, which include rumply linen, a decent weight denim and drapey tencel blend. There are two bib styles to choose from (straight across or scooped top) and the pants can be made in a loose pull-on style or more fitted at the waist, with a side zip.

For a nice warm wintry pair of overalls I chose our Japanese wool blend tweedy herringbone. I like the contrast of this 'serious' type of fabric used in a fun pattern. I made a muslin of the more fitted pants in the size matching my measurements and found the fit to be spot on, hurrah! Being a non-willowy 163cm / 5ft3 I was able to take out 2 inches at the lengthen/shorten lines on the leg pattern pieces and still have a good deep hem for maximum swishiness.
This fabric has a bit of give and I used more interfacing than suggested in the pattern to ensure it wouldn't stretch out in places like the pocket edges, waistband, all edges of the bib facing and straps and belt loops. The pattern came together smoothly, with the fiddliest bit definitely ironing the straps into shape (turn in edges then fold in half), since there was no way I'd attempt a turned strap in this fabric (and the pattern wisely gives both methods to accommodate all fabrics). All facings are stitched down and the inside finish is pleasingly neat.
Inside of the front bib
 This wool blend was a pleasure to work with, taking a steamy iron on wool setting very well. It's definitely warm, but not too heavy, and not at all scratchy against my legs.
My only other deviation from the pattern was to use a regular zip rather than invisible. (I think I did one properly, once, but... eh.) I hand-stitched the facings down to the zip on the inside to finish it off.

And as soon as I had finished that little bit of hand-stitching I put them on and wore them for the next two days straight! And then restrained myself for two days... and now they're back on as I type.

I had a moment when I wondered if these might look better slightly cropped. I'm likely to always wear them with boots anyway. But on the first day of wear I realised I loved the warmth of all that wool and I don't want to lose any of it!

These are so much fun to wear. I feel a bit fancy, and extremely comfortable. The wide legs are quite a style departure for me but I quickly felt at home in them. I love my Burnside Bibs and I think I see a denim version... or maybe a linen one... in my future. The only thing I'd change next time would be to lengthen the bib a bit (probably the equivalent of an FBA in this pattern!).

Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven (currently pdf only from their website)
Version 1 (darted back), full length
Japanese wool blend herringbone - pattern stated fabric requirement to be 3m for 147cm wide fabric, but I was able to use about half a metre less.
12  - pattern goes from US size 00 to 20 so I imagine would fit young teens through to some decent curves.
Shortened legs by 2 inches, interfaced at all likely stretch points, used regular rather than invisible zip.
Important note! These are actually quite easy to take on and off (including for quick trips to the loo) and do not require the straps to be undone, although I can't speak for the zip-less version. I imagine that would depend on how tightly you tied the straps. Happy dance!

Other fabric suggestions:
Art Gallery Denims
Mid/heavy weight natural linen
10oz black denim
Linen/viscose in Smokey Blue
Nani Iro 100% Linen

- Jane & Fiona xx

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Pattern Review - Christine Haynes Lottie pattern

The Christine Haynes Lottie is one of those patterns that we were really keen to buy for the shop as soon as it was published. In a similar way to the Lotta Jansdotter Esme dress, the Lottie is the kind of easy sew, easy wear top/tunic/dress you could make a few of in different fabrics and call it your uniform. Even better, the pattern itself is a fulsome offering, with shirt and maxi-length options as well as a sleeves of varying lengths and style - 18 different combinations in total.

In light of this being such an appealing and versatile pattern, I honestly can't tell you why it has taken me so long to make this sample and blog about it. I suspect we were at the height of our Fen fever when it arrived and poor Lottie has been overlooked. But she is no less worthy.

I made View B - the one with the 3/4 length sleeves. Pockets were left off ('cause, let's face it - the wall in our shop where this will be displayed does not need pockets), but rest assured there are patch pockets included in this pattern, plus it would be easy to add side seam pockets to should the need arise.

Working with a 1.8m remnant of 150cm wide fabric meant that I needed to leave 5cm off the dress length, so this version falls squarely into tunic territory. The full length dress would be easily eked out of 2m rather than the 2.3m stipulated in the instructions, unless you've got pattern matching to do where you might want more. This version is a size 10 as per my measurements but note that this pattern makes a roomy frock. Christine kindly gives finished garment measurements, so I'd recommend you refer to those as there's a decent amount (more than 4 inches) of ease built in. I'd size down next time, especially after seeing these photos.

Of course you can leave the sleeves off this pattern as it has a decent cut-on dolman sleeve already, but I was keen to add them for cooler days - plus, the way the sleeves come together is a nice touch. There is a different piece for the front and back of each sleeve which are cut on an angle so they drape well. This also helps them to look nicely finished if your fabric is directional or patterned. The top-stitching is a nice touch here too.

The pattern itself is an easy sew (Christine rates it as 2/5 level of difficulty) - there are no closures or fitting, and the neckline is finished with bias tape. It's very beginner friendly. 

This fabric is an Art Gallery printed denim - a lovely crisp, soft cotton, available in our online shop here.

The top version of Lottie would be great with jeans, sewn up in a variety of lightweight fabrics - linen, double gauze or chambray. We're also thinking that a light wool Lottie would be a useful winter layer too… I suspect there will be more Lotties around here.

- Fiona & Jane xx