In this tutorial, over three posts, we show the construction of View A (to be used in conjunction with the instruction booklet).
Tutorial Part 1: Construction of the Lined Yoke.
Select your fabric/s and pre-wash. Choose your size, trace off your pattern and cut out your fabric pieces according to the layouts in the instructions.
NB: for View A with the bound neckline, you will need 7 - 8 lengths of the bias tape, using the template provided in the pattern. If you are able to cut your bias in longer continuous lengths, this will be preferable since you will end up with less joins.
Choose a stable woven fabric with some softness and drape. The yoke is fully lined. If you are using a patterned fabric for the outer yoke it can be a good idea to use something plain for the lining so you don't have pattern show-through.
This tutorial features a 'wearable muslin', made from a stashed remnant of printed cotton voile, and some white cotton (from an old baby bedsheet!) for the lining.
So, let's get sewing! Pin back yoke and back yoke lining right sides together. Measure and mark 3/4" from top shoulder, and do not stitch beyond this mark.
Sew neckline and armholes and trim seam allowances as directed.
Pin front yoke and front yoke lining together. Measure and mark at top shoulder points as you did for the back. Measure and mark the stitching line around the cutout sections (5/8" in from edge) to ensure accuracy.
Stitch as directed, lifting the presser foot and pivoting at the points.
Trim the seam allowances, then snip off the points and snip into the V-shapes, almost up to the line of stitching.
Turn in the right way and press well. Flip out those untrimmed ends. (That's a floral ironing board cover underneath.) There will be a bit of puckering around those ends; they won't sit perfectly but that's okay.
There was some pulling at the V-points so I opened it up and snipped a bit more into the seam allowance there to help it lie flat.
Tuck the front yoke inside the back yoke (which is still inside out), so that right sides are together.
Now reach inside, in between those ends, and pull that middle layer (the front yoke) out a bit.
Open up the seam allowances on either side and carefully align.
Sew along the seam line, over the opened up shoulder seam allowances. Make sure the inner layers of the front yoke are bunched up in the middle, away from where you're sewing.
the next post, we show you how to finish the neckline with bias tape to create that cutout look.
And in the final post we attach the bodice front and back and finish it all off.
- Jane & Fiona xx